n.v. – Napa, CA
A Diner's Journal
By Stacey Bressler
Sometimes you don't know what you're lacking until
the need is filled. This is a happy occasion and one that occurs when
you visit n.v. When I first heard that Peter Halikas, the talented and
personable chef who formerly headed up the catering arm of Dean and
Deluca's in St. Helena, was opening a “California
Cuisine” restaurant in Napa, I wondered if he would be able
to make a go of it. But now that I've been to n.v. on several
occasions, I cannot imagine how I existed before it was there. It seems
like the kind of fine dining and lounge combination that naturally
belongs in close proximity to the Opera House.
The dinner menu at n.v. consists of a lot of familiar dishes
– but with a definite twist. Sometimes it's in the
preparation, as with the mussels three ways, and sometimes it's in the
presentation, as with the tuna carpaccio. Many restaurants in the area
offer mussels as an appetizer, but at n.v. you get a trio of
combinations; steamed in the traditional style, baked, and rolled in
pancetta ($8 for the trio). It's a nice change. However, the tuna
carpaccio ($12) is a true show-stopper. Arranged on the plate like rose
petals, this dish is almost too pretty to eat. Notice I said almost
– the tuna with soy demi, Tobiko caviar and fragrant rice is
truly delicious. My husband's vote for best appetizer goes to the house
cured gravlax served on a crispy potato cake and garnished with
crème fraiche and caviar ($9). It's enough to make even a
dedicated carb-watcher forsake the diet. I'm also very fond of the
beautiful roasted beet and goat cheese Napoleon ($7) which is another
gorgeous presentation with many tiny layers of red and white served on
a plate that has been “painted” with beet juice.
The entreé selections are equally appealing. Seared scallops
with a delicate saffron sauce ($20) are done to perfection. My husband
loves the beef tenderloin ($24), but it's really the accompanying
horseradish croquettes that keep him coming back to this dish. These
incredible little delights are made of potato and horseradish and fried
into crispy rings. Chef Peter Halikas has been experimenting with
getting just enough spiciness and now seems to have reached his goal.
As a lover of game, I can also recommend the venison ($28) which was
tender and rich and perfect with the Burgundy wine we were drinking.
Desserts were lovely to look at, but we were full enough to resist
– except once. There was a daily special foie gras with
chocolate sauce ($18) which was exceptional. I probably would have
preferred to have this as an appetizer, but I can never pass up an
opportunity for seared foie gras, and Peter does an excellent job with
its preparation.
With all these kudos for the dining room, it's time to move on to
praise for the lounge. Why has it taken so long for such a place to
open? This is a sophisticated lounge with well-made cocktails,
interesting bar food, and a dress code that precludes baseball caps and
sloppy jeans (nice jeans are fine). On weekends when there is a large
enough crowd, the lounge will stay open until 2 AM. The bar menu
contains such intriguing offerings as foie gras sliders and sweetbread
poppers. As of this writing, I have not sampled these delicacies, but I
can attest to the n.v. lounge's bartender's prowess at making a really
good Cosmopolitan. I can certainly imagine stopping by the n.v. lounge
after attending a movie or a performance at the Opera House. When
summer comes, the outdoor area will be open for service and I'm really
looking forward to that.
n.v.,
1106 First St., Napa, CA 94558 - 707/265.6400
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