By Stacey Bressler

Growing up in Italian neighborhood in New Jersey, we had many quaint little romantic Italian restaurants. They were usually family-run and every table had a flickering candle. Since moving to Northern California, I've been seeking this same kind of place. While Posticino serves on white-clothed tables (unlike the checkered red and white of my youth), and the Italian cuisine here mostly reflects a region far North of what was served in N.J., the neighborhood feeling is there. It's cozy and friendly and the folks coming in seem to be "locals." On many of the occasions when I've dined at Posticino, a birthday or anniversary celebration was happening at a nearby table.

You can't help but feel welcome when the complimentary green olive tapenade and warm yeasty rolls that are more like biscuits than bread arrive at your table. I can usually resist carb-laden dinner rolls, but at Posticino I give in to temptation. The menu, which changes with the seasons and is always expanded by daily specials, is continually ambitious and interesting. One of my favorite appetizers, the Insalata Amara, combines endive and chicory with fennel and seasonal fruit ($7). The success of this dish varies with the ingredients but it is always enjoyable. Another all-time favorite was a "Zuppa del Giorno" special - a cream-based crab and sweet pepper bisque ($8). If that soup happens to be available when you visit Posticino, I highly recommend it! The calamari is good, though not unusual ($9). The warm lobster salad in puff pastry, called Insalatina d'Aragosta ($15) was excellent on one visit and disappointing on the next when the lobster pieces were smaller and the pastry less flaky.

The pastas, made fresh by hand daily, are wonderfully light. The Gnocchi di Patate ($11) and Tortelloni alla Fonduta (large tortelloni filled with melted cheese and toasted almonds, spinach, mushrooms, butter and truffle oil - $16) both drew rave reviews at our table. There is a daily risotto that is also worth checking out, especially when wild mushrooms are offered. But what keeps us coming back to Posticino is the Scaloppine di Vitello ($19). The veal is presented in your choice of three preparations - Marsala, Picata, or Saltimbucco style - and served with truffled potatoes and seasonal vegetable. There are very few places in the area serving veal, and Posticino does a terrific job. I think the Marsala is my favorite, but my husband votes for the Picata. The daily fish special has also been excellent on several occasions.

I have only had one of the desserts, the Zabaglioni with fresh berries ($8), and enjoyed it immensely. But what I enjoy most is the energy of the place. It just feels good to be there.

At lunchtime, Posticino serves additional salads, including a wonderful roasted chicken on Romaine lettuce and baby spinach leaves with a warm gorgonzola dressing ($11) and an equally delicious grilled salmon on lettuce with a tarragon mustard dressing ($15). Classic Caesar salad ($8) can be made more hearty with the addition of shrimp ($6 additional) or chicken breast ($4 additional). There are also three panini sandwiches with rosemary garlic fries that look appealing. Most of the rest of the dinner pastas and secondi are also available at lunch. The wine list features both Italian and California wines and corkage is $10.

October, 2005

Posticino
1480 Clay St.
Napa, CA 94559
707-255-0110